Halfway between the 417 and Almonte, just west of Ottawa on
March Road, lies the Corkery Ridge, an intriguing bit of history, and
forgotten communities.
Cresting the ridge reveals a spectacular view west: a long,
shallow valley runs north-south, with exposed limestone on the slopes, swampy
ground at the bottom where Peter Robinson Road and then Upper Dwyer Hill Road
cross March Road, scrubby vegetation
eking out an existence among the rocks and swamps. A few pioneer log homes dot
the area, as well as some magnificent Eastern White pines that are possibly remnants
of the original old growth forest.
At the top of the ridge lies Corkery Rd running south, and
just past the corner is St. Michaels Catholic Church--another remnant of the
pioneer days and the mostly Irish immigrants that settled this little pocket of
Huntley Township in Carleton County.
On the far side of the valley lies a large quarry run by the
Cavanagh family. Behind the quarry and up on the far ridge lies Burnt Lands
Provincial park, an alvar that is remarkably rare in the world and home to rare
plant and animal species found nowhere else.
Most of this view can be taken in with one quick glance.
It’s a pretty but unremarkable view of rural life today: Some old farms, some
newer ones, a few McMansions placed imperiously. I’ve seen this view thousands
of time on my daily commute into Ottawa. But I always wondered, who was Peter
Robinson and what lies down the unopened section of road between March Road and
Old Almonte Road, that bears his name?
Here’s the view of Peter Robinson Road as seen from the Old
Almonte Road.
Since it’s in a swamp, it’s usually filled with water. However, this year’s dry summer dried things up enough to convince me to take a look.
Turns out there’s a solid layer of rock beneath the dirt, making it easy to ride. Just a few puddles to run through.
After a couple hundred metres, the swamp gives way to a
gentle rise that turns into an island of sorts, surrounded by swamp in all
directions. It’s a beautiful location: quiet, breezy, completely remote and
invisible from the surrounding area.
So I’m surprised to note what appears to be an old building up
on the rise. Sure enough, it appears to have been a fine log home with high
ceilings, large windows, a rubble foundation, and at least two doors. The roof
has long since caved in, but inside are the remains of plaster wall coverings.
This was no shanty – it was clearly a loved home.
There’s too much overgrowth to get much of a closer look.
A
few dozen metres away lay the remains of a significant barn structure, and
possibly the original shanty that the settlers built until they could erect a more
permanent home.
There was also recent evidence of visitors: shotgun garbage
scattered on the ground. Otherwise the site appeared to have been abandoned for
many decades, probably not even used as a hunt camp in at least 50 years.
The old road continued past the farm, but soon became
impassable swamp, so I didn’t risk it and turned back.
Now I was intrigued: Who lived here? What’s the connection
with Peter Robinson? What’s the story behind this forgotten pioneer home
surrounded by swamp and clearly isolated from any recognizable community?
Some online research revealed part of the story and a few
more surprises. Peter Robinson was well known by 1834 as someone who arranged
for many shiploads of poor families to leave Ireland and settle in Huntley Township.
He worked tirelessly to give them an opportunity for a better life and seems to
have been widely respected for these efforts. Many common family names around
Almonte and Corkery today, including the Cavanaghs of quarrying fame, can trace
their roots back to Peter Robinsons ships.
Consulting a
map of Huntley Township from 1879 revealed that
the land where the old log house lay belonged to James Carter. It even showed a
house in the same location as the ruins. More sleuthing uncovered obituaries in
the Almonte Gazette for
Elizabeth Carter (nee Kelly) and her
husband, JamesCarter, who was born 1824 in Tyrone, Ireland, and died in 1894 in Huntley
Township. The family grave is just up the hill at St. Michael's.
James arrived in Canada in 1845. Although there were a few James
Carters on the passenger lists of the Peter Robinson ships, it's seems clear he wasn’t one of them. He originally settled in Ramsay
Township (home to Almonte) and then later moved to Huntley Township. There are
only
three lots registered to a James Carter in Huntley, and they are adjacent
to the one with the ruins. Clearly this was the homestead of James and
Elizabeth Carter, and their ten children--one of whom, Patrick, continued to live at the homestead.
I’m guessing the home was built after the great fire of 1870
which swept through the area from Almonte to Ottawa and destroyed pretty much
everything in its path. And it was obviously built before 1879, the date of the
map. It was probably built between 1871-1878.
Here's the satellite view of the site:
Peter Robinson Road is visible along the treeline at top right; the house is the smaller square rectangle at lower right. The faint white lines indicate the unopened road allowances which are still registered with the Province of Ontario.
How did James and his family get to and from the home? Where
did they connect with their community? The swamp route along Peter Robinson
Road was probably not viable for most of the year. I’m guessing there’s a
higher path that leads towards Upper Dwyer Hill Road. Remarkably, there were
several options for nearby community, although nothing remains today.
The old map shows that the intersection of Corkery Rd and
Old Almonte Rd (where today stands a modern home) used to be called West
Huntley, where there was a store and post office. These buildings were
destroyed in the 1870 fire and presumably that was the end of West Huntley.
On Old Almonte Rd near the intersection with Upper Dwyer
Hill Rd was another community called Clandeboye, also home to a post office.
Nothing remains today except a few modern homes. The former Herb Garden across
the road was probably part of the hamlet.
Most intriguing is that at St. Michael’s Church on the crest
of March Rd, the original path of Corkery Rd continued across March Rd and
along the slope where today there’s a rural subdivision. This road descended
the ridge at a lower slope and met up with Carroll Road where it crosses Peter
Robinson Road. Many years ago, before the subdivision on the ridge was built, I
met the owners of the farm at this intersection and they invited me to mountain
bike up the ridge to the forest beyond. The satellite image of the ridge shows
signs of a vestigial road in this location. Little did I know, the route I’d cycled
from Almonte through the Burnt Lands, down the old Carroll Road allowance, and
up the ridge was in fact one of the original routes into Almonte before March
Road was opened through the steep ridge beside Cavanagh’s quarry.
Also intriguing is that along the Carroll Road where it
rises into the Burnt Lands was another hamlet called Powell, where there was a
hotel and post office. Today it’s just bush but now I’m really curious to see
if any signs of the former buildings remain.
All of these locations are marked in orange on the following map. The blue rectangles indicate the approximate views of the satellite images.
Here's the vestigial road down Corkery ridge. It's barely visible as a diagonal depression running from top right down to the farm house at bottom left:
Here's the probably location of the Powell hotel and post office on Carroll Rd:
James Carter and his family lived in what was probably a
more bustling farming community than today’s sleepy rural farmland would
suggest. However, the lure of fertile land drew many of the Huntley pioneers
west, and those who remained would’ve faced soul-crushing work rebuilding their
lives after the total destruction of the region by the 1870 fire.
Here's a class photo (dated maybe 1924?) from the old school #6 that used to be located near the present-day firehall up on Old Almonte Road past Corkery Road. The indicated Carters are not children of James and Elizabeth, but may be grandchildren or great-grandchildren descended from Patrick, who continued to live in the home. If so, then the old farm may have been inhabited in 1924.